Holiday Reunion memories

Holiday reunions are coming. Are you ready for your crazy relatives? Back in the day, every weekend was a holiday reunion. The menu, script, and cast of characters were always set. There were always surprise guests and food items. Sometimes Dad’s Harlem-Southern and Mom’s Chinese West Indian folks would visit at the same time.

Aunt Jerri Smith w Miriam Hopkins, in 'Smiling Lieutenant,' 1931.
Aunt Jerri Smith w Miriam Hopkins, in ‘Smiling Lieutenant,’ 1931.

But today, because we recently recognized my Dad on Facebook for Veteran’s Day, I am still thinking about his people. Thanksgiving was a big holiday for them. They were part of America’s largest migration of Black folks from the Deep South to the North. Dad and his siblings performed ‘on the road’ in a family musical show from Mississippi, New Orleans, and many Chitlin’ Circuit venues all the way to Harlem. Their journey was documented in Harlem Renaissance news clips found during my extensive genealogy searches. Music, religion, food, and drama are my most vivid memories. We routinely gathered on Sundays after church at Grandmother’s house. Madame Tempy Stuart Smith or Mother, as she was called, was our Pentecostal matriarch. To her, folks were either ‘saints’ or ‘sinners.’

Drama genes: Scientific DNA proof that drama genes exist may still be unproven. But I’m sure Dad’s very intense family have strong drama genes! From the kitchen to the living room, basement, backyard porch, and dining table, there would be drama with this clan. Invariably, someone would say something. Drunk Uncle might quote the Bible. He would call out The Hussie and her daughter, Hoochie Girl as sinners. “They are not saved!” Family Peacemakers and ‘saints’ would rush in to quiet the gossip. Funny Elder Male Cousin would imitate an X-rated Red Fox’s comedy routine. Tap dancing, piano playing, and singing aunts, uncles and cousins would compete to showoff their skills. There would be multi-generational knee slapping, head shaking, laughter, arguing and applause. There would be tears too. Memories of many long gone or a new trauma would shift the mood. These intimate gatherings were loud, lively and could last for days. My parents, both classically trained musicians, inherited four pianos, leftover from grandmother’s music schools. Positioned in the front and back on three floors of our Brooklyn brownstone, our pianos were used by visiting artists to rehearse shows as well as by us for home entertainment. No TV or Internet folks! Live entertainment! Classical piano training and dance was mandatory in Dad’s family. We were all pupils, tutors, or teachers at grandmother’s music schools. Some of my family performed in Hollywood films and on Broadway with Cab Calloway and Sammy Davis Jr. Everyone could be called on to perform a dance step, play a concerto, recite a poem or sing along. My eldest cousin Sonny, a masterful pianist, Aunt Kaye’s son, tutored me on Beethoven Sonatas during these gatherings.

MusicalFamilyAbletoSupportSelves

 

Cast of characters: Dad was the mellow one. Everyone else seemed to have fierce personalities. We often blamed our African, Cherokee and European Creole ancestors for their colorful behavior. Who was going to ‘show out’ this time? Did anybody care that some of us children were too sensitive to be exposed to them? No! Kids didn’t matter back then. My Brother Sidney and I both wondered if we were born into the wrong family. Fueled by our Chinese West Indian Mom’s teachings about Hindu and Buddhism, we would speculate about reincarnation and other spiritual forces. Were we here before? What if we were born during another era, as a different gender, race, nationality, or from another planet?

What planet did our Family Diva Queen, Aunt Kaye come from? She was one of my father’s three sisters. Making a grand entrance, like Lena Horn, Aunt Kaye often appeared with her ‘friend’ Aunt Dorothea. ‘Bull Dagger’ and ‘dyke’ were labels we heard in reference to Aunt Dorothea. But no one dared say that to her face. We loved and admired Dorothea’s magnificent contralto voice, especially singing Negro Spirituals. She was one of the world’s first dark-skinned African American opera singers who regularly toured Europe. Dorothea was a true Grand Diva. Off stage she wore tailored men’s suits and could knock back whiskey shots like a man. One day Miss Busy Body asked: ‘But, where’s cousin Sonny’s dad, Uncle Brigman, Aunt Kaye’s husband? ”Oh, him!” snapped Kaye. “He raped me! Folks would rolls their eyes. “Yes, he did. Twice, in Grants Tomb!” Aunt Kaye was known to exaggerate, faint and threaten suicide. As children, we were simultaneously distressed and amused by her.

Aunt Kaye with her mother Madame Tempy Stuart Smith
Aunt Kaye with her mother Madame Tempy Stuart Smith

 

After a few sips of her cocktail, Kaye would show out. She would go from poised, well-spoken Negro film star to full-blown crazy, finger-pointing, squinty-eyed, possessed lady. “What kind of family is this? None of you love me! When was the last time YOU called or YOU visited me? Not one birthday card from anybody! None of you care about me! Why don’t I just go and jump off the Brooklyn Bridge?” Under her breath, Sanctified Aunt said: ”Oh Lord, there she goes again with that fake madness! She should go on then. Do it! Spare us the drama!” Eventually, order would be restored. We would end up hugging and telling Aunt Kaye that we loved her—about a million times through the night! Thankfully, at these holiday reunions, food and festive beverages would be the featured attraction and distraction.

Holiday food: Our holiday feasts always paired traditional menus of Southern Creole and Caribbean food because of our mixed heritage. It was never just about turkey, collards greens and cornbread. The Thanksgiving soul food menu is quite diverse.

“There’s a wide repertoire of food. Everybody understands the iconic list of greens and pork chops and corn bread and sweet potato pie. But that is only a minor list of all of the different foods that people eat within their own communities,” says a researcher at Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello.” Click here to read more about our ancestors’ regional holiday foods.
Naturally, Christmas is huge in the Caribbean. Each island offers a unique style of cooking using regional ingredients.

“The fact is that no one celebrates Christmas with more verve and gusto than the folks in the Caribbean. From Puerto Rico to Guadeloupe to Jamaica, the holiday is a time for fun, family and food. Each island puts its own stamp on the season, but everywhere there’s rum and rejoicing — plus, the pigs are sacred!”

To learn more about Caribbean holidays traditions, click here for details.

Do you recall family drama or colorful characters from your holiday reunions?

Watch Night is part of genealogy search

Family History Month

Creole PrepFamily History Month is celebrated in October by genealogists worldwide. This is a perfect time to celebrate your food legacy. I learned so much about my Southern and Caribbean genealogy and culture through the food we ate at home.

Here are 3 ways to honor your family’s food legacy:

  1. Share memories of food you ate growing up. Don’t take your culinary traditions for granted. Be proud of all the crazy things you ate at home!
  2. Create a family cookbook by collecting recipes. Read or write about how food intersects with culture and history.
  3. Travel to your ancestral homeland to taste and witness your authentic roots. The land, waterways, air, plants, animals, fish, fowl, bugs, farms, gardens, environment and dietary habits of your people are all important parts to your history.

“Almost every family has a treasured recipe, beloved as much for the memories it evokes of family get-togethers or a special family member, as it is for its taste. Most families have many such recipes, handed down through generations, taught to children, or squirreled away on index cards or scraps of paper.” Click here for tips on how to create your own cookbook.

Cooking Genes: To start your food legacy journey, do some genealogy research first to learn about your cooking genes. Collect videos, blog posts, podcasts, news clips and photos to share with relatives. My father was a Creole baker via Mississippi and Louisiana. His pies are still legendary in our old Crown Heights, Brooklyn neighborhood. Although we are New Yorkers, the great migration brought our family North from the Deep South and the Caribbean via Africa and China.

Genealogy

A tiny newspaper announcement about my paternal great-grandfather’s award-winning ‘Creole’ onions confirmed stories about his farming/gardening genes in Ocean Springs, Mississippi. I also verified stories about his food business marketing genes from a classified ad in a local Louisiana newspaper. It listed my grandmother, Tempy Stuart Smith, as the contact for the sale of a cow from the family’s dairy farm. West Indian foods provoke fond memories from my maternal island relatives, especially – hot sauce, Dasheen greens, Callaloo, crab, king fish and a salt cod fish dish called Buljol, from the French brûle gueule, which means “burn mouth.”

Scary, weird food: Actually, a lot of our home food was scary and weird to us as kids. My brother Sidney recently recalled Callaloo as a “green swamp with crab claws crawling out from a tureen ready to attack.”  But he added that he loved eating it! A finicky eater, Sidney was bothered by pig parts, like tails, feet, ears or whole pig heads, especially eyeballs in the pots. Another memory he shared: “Uncle Louie’s ‘monster’ fish with big teeth that he caught off local NYC waterways! We survived eating contaminated fish!”  Certain foods still conjure fun memories about colorful characters in our family! By the way, check out my brother’s new podcast called Uncle Sidney.’ He’s a wonderful storyteller and sometimes includes family stories!

Creole food:  Whenever I see my brother Sidney I ask him: ”Did we really eat that or was I dreaming?” Those were the days when food was ‘real’! Ask any Southerner or Caribbean native about Creole food and you will get an earful of flavorful, down-home ingredients and preparations: onions, peppers, garlic, celery, tomatoes, greens, okras, yams, sugar cane, coconut, mangoes, limes, meats, seafood, spices, sauces and seasonings! Sometimes island recipe items are confusing—for example pimentos really mean allspice berries— not those red things in olives!

The basis of Creole cooking is the mirepoix, holy trinity, sofrito and other humble beginnings. To learn more, click here.
Creole food can be complex and simple. It can be any combination of African, Native, Caribbean, Chinese, Indian, French, Spanish, and Mediterranean elements. Sometimes it is simple country or Soul cooking with a French flair or straight-up Afro-Latino food!

gumbo

Callalou and Gumbo are great examples of Creole food that I grew up eating. Both dishes—soup, stew, or braised 1-pot meals – tell Diaspora stories of slavery, freedom, migration, and immigration. Both of these dishes have okra in common. Both can also be a side dish or main course. Both can be vegan, or made by combining ham bones, pig tails, chicken, sausage, fish and seafood. While Callaloo is primarily green, gumbo can be green, red/orange or brown. I’m passionate about Creole cookery. I’m always exploring new recipes.

Here is a link for a Trinidad Callaloo recipe.

Here is a link for some Gumbo recipes.

What’s in your family food legacy? Do you have any scary, weird food memories to share?

Rename Columbus Day

Native Blanket

The movement to rename Columbus Day continues to build. By now, many of you agree that we should honor our Indigenous sisters and brothers. Christopher Columbus and his invaders were lost at sea. He landed in the Caribbean where he was rescued and greeted with love and generosity by the Taino and native tribes. He thought they were inferior and began a campaign of murder, rape, torture, and slavery that lasted for years. Today, he is rarely discussed in US classrooms. Historians have already proven that America was populated by millions of civilized Natives and Indigenous tribes. Furthermore, ancient Hebrews, Chinese and Vikings had already visited or ‘discovered’ America hundreds of years before Columbus. To read more on the false history many of us were taught, click here.

Thank goodness, more American communities want to recognize Indigenous Day of Remembrance. You may recall that I posted about renaming the American holiday Indigenous Remembrance Day, last year. Here’s an excerpt:

“My Indigenous and Native American ancestors are finally getting some respect. Columbus Day is getting re-branded. I know that my ancestors would be thrilled to see more American cities recognize the truth: That Columbus did not ‘discover’ America.”  To read more, click my blog post.

 

Native tribes protest Columbus Day at Columbus Circle, NYC
Native tribes protest Columbus Day at Columbus Circle, NYC

Berkley, California was the first city to get rid of the holiday back in the 1990s. Today, more cities are pushing for change. Cities in Kansas, Oregon and Texas have already gotten rid of this holiday. For facts, click more cities.

Some religious leaders want to see the holiday renamed for Indigenous people too.

“We are the original inhabitants of this land,” said the Rev. David Wilson, superintendent of the Oklahoma Indian Missionary Conference and a Choctaw. “But there is so little to affirm the contributions that Native American people have made to this country by giving up the land, which wasn’t voluntary, and all the sacrifices people have made.” For more, click here: churches push to rename Columbus Day.

Of course some Italian organizations are upset. One group has proposed a ‘middle-ground.’ An idea to rename the day for Italians and make another day for Natives is making its rounds.

“John Viola, president of the Washington, D.C.-based National Italian American Foundation, said renaming Columbus Day dishonors the country’s 25 million Italian Americans and their ancestors. He said Italian Americans feel slighted by cities that are dropping Columbus Day.” By default, we’re like the collateral damage of this trend,” he said. The foundation’s leadership council is scheduled later this month to take up the issue.” For more, click here.

Would you vote in favor of a new holiday called Indigenous Remembrance Day? Is there a middle ground for Italian heritage and Native recognition?

Autumn rituals

Do you have Autumn rituals? I do. It’s about accepting change in mind, body and soul. Nature changes with each new season. So must we. I believe that we all follow seasonal rituals whether conscious or unconscious that were passed down or learned along the way. I wonder what could be in an autumn ‘tool kit’? What do we need to do to open our hearts for this new season? What do you do to indulge your senses with sights, sounds, and scents of Autumn?

Autumn FlowersI usually start in my kitchen. I fill my home with spicy aromas that inspire warmth and memories. I enjoy everything pumpkin and squash, especially pumpkin spice lattes. I go crazy with apples. Hearty family recipes using beans, greens and root veggies are certainly finding action in my pots too. I am still gardening!

Sights: Autumn is my favorite season. As a New Yorker, going to ‘see’ the Fall colors in Brooklyn Botanical Garden @bklynbotanic, Central Park @CentralParkNYC, and Wave Hill @WaveHill are traditions. Vibrant green, pink, lavender, gold, orange, magenta, brown and purple New England memories are also sealed in my heart from my @smithcollege years. The melancholy vibration of autumn does not bother me. Going outside into nature is good therapy. I see signs of hope everywhere. I’m ready to face that summer is over. The leaves are falling and many of my flowers are gone. But my urban garden—simple containers on my roof— is still thriving. Wild grass, boxwoods, Japanese maples, evergreen bushes, collard greens, kale, herbs and flowers are still sprouting.

my urban garden

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mind, Body & Soul: Some of my Autumn rituals have ‘back to work—back to school’ elements. I have a new Fall reading list that includes real books, especially cook books, in addition to news articles and blogs. I moved my leftover summer reading list to another pile. My closet is getting scattered for color and pieces to be layered. Happily, I completed a recent bit of de-cluttering. And speaking of body, I re-started swimming class at the YMCA again!

Indigenous rally at Columbus Circle

Activism: I am re-focused on activism with my slavery healing group, Coming to the Table and Indigenous Remembrance Day (re-naming Columbus Day)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

mulling spices

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scents of Autumn: Caribbean Mulling Spice

Try my easy Caribbean mulling spice recipe to fill your home with spicy aromas. Mulling is simply adding spices to your beverage and warming it up. Use whole spices instead of ground to keep down grittiness and cloudiness.

Ingredients

1 gallon Apple Cider or Cranberry Juice or 2 bottles of Red Wine (a fruity type like Zinfandel)

8 Cinnamon sticks

8 Whole cloves

*2Star anise (see note)

8 Allspice berries

2 Nutmeg whole

Ginger, about 3 pieces, fresh sliced on diagonal, 1/8th thick

1 Orange, use grated peels of 1 whole orange

1 Lemon, use grated peels of 1 lemon

1 tsp. Vanilla extract

*Options: Star Anise can be overpowering for some. Instead, add 8 Cardamom pods, delete Star Anise to create a lighter taste!

How to Mull

Pour liquid into a pot; add spices, ingredients, bring to gentle boil, simmer over low heat. It’s great for many hours. Add more liquid as you go.

Mulling Ways: You can also use mulled spices for Maple Syrup for your pancakes or waffles. Pour Maple Syrup into a pan, use half amount of mulling spices, bring to low boil. Simmer 30 minutes.

Autumn clothingTraditional Autumn Rituals: My sister, a performance artist, combines Native American and traditional African, Asian ancestral rituals. She burns incense and sage bush to clear evil spirits. She sent me a video of her recent ‘home blessing’ gathering. Scented candles were lit to ‘intentionally’ mark and welcome the new season. We both practice Feng Shui. Before it was a designer trend, our mother incorporated this ancient Chinese art of balancing our home for health, wealth, happiness with colors and nature elements such as wood, water, earth, and metal. A focus on the ‘ancestor’ bagua or section of your home is particularly important during this season. Make sure you have an area of your home to honor your ancestors with photos, clothing, quilts, books or items passed down. For more on Feng Shui, click here.

Autumn Home Fragrance: To bring autumn fragrance into your home simply place the mulling spices into about a gallon of water in a big pot. Remember to adjust use of Star Anise. Allow the spices to come to a low boil. Keep it simmering all day in a pot or slow cooker on low. Add more liquid to keep going. Inhale. Exhale.

Autumn aroma gift bags: Make simple gifts for visitors. Shopping for spices is one of my passions. I love Mexican cinnamon, which has a larger, softer bark and a nice intense flavor. It can be found in many NYC ethnic neighborhoods. Put together a nice bunch of spices into a glass jar; tie with a colorful ribbon; or place spices in cheesecloth and tie with kitchen string.

Autumn Aromatherapy Bath:

Ingredients

1 1/2 cup of Epson Salt

10 drops Rosemary oil

10 drops Eucalyptus oil

4 drops Geranium oil

Baby bubble bath, (Lavender) as preferred

Bowl or container for mixing

Directions: This recipe will clear your lungs for deep breathing and provide calming too. Add Epson Salt to a bowl or container, add essential oils to the salts. Run hot water in the tub for bath. Pour oil-soaked Epsom salts and a few caps of bubble bath soap into hot bath water. Light a candle, dim lights. Play meditation music. Soak and breathe deep for at least 30 minutes. Welcome Autumn with serenity! For more aromatherapy bath ideas, click here. For a list of Autumn essential oils click here.

For information about meditations for accepting seasonal changes meditations click here.

What are your Autumn rituals?

Afro-Asian Diaspora Food Profiles

Afro-Asian Diaspora food flavor profiles can create culinary game change in your kitchen. I spent the whole summer exploring Japanese, Korean and Creole cuisine, especially vegetable side dishes. Although I am more experienced with Soul-Chinese food, I thought it would be helpful to post a comprehensive list of Diaspora food profiles. Hopefully, this list can be useful to your ethnic food cooking journeys!

I grew up in a multicultural family eating a mix of food from my Chinese, South Indian, Caribbean, Southern Creole and African ancestors. The Transatlantic Slave Trade, indenturedness, migration and immigration dispersed the African and Asian peoples throughout the Americas. As a result, these food cultures intersected and intermingled with Native tribes and European colonizers to create double and triple Creolizations. In my family, we jokingly refer to our home cooking as Afro-Asian-Indo-Caribbean-Soul food. My husband calls my food ‘Creole Chinese.’ The essence of Afro-Asian Diaspora food is found in ingredients and flavor profiles. Merging various ethnic flavor profiles, seasonings and ingredients into one pot can change your life! What’s amazing is that many Afro-Asian ingredients can be found in your local Chinatown. Okra, yams, pumpkin, chow chow, ginger, cilantro, and hot peppers are always there.

What is Flavor Profiles? “A flavor profile includes the overall attributes and tastes of a particular food product or cuisine. Due to trade and globalization, numerous cuisines around the world use many of the same basic foods, but may season those foods in distinctive ways. In the United States, enslaved Africans brought their native foods such as okra, black-eyed peas, and yams, and also incorporated corn and other local ingredients. Especially in the South, many typical foods have strong ties to this African tradition.” (EcoLiteracy)

What is Diaspora? The term ‘diaspora’ comes from an ancient Greek word meaning “to scatter about.” Many of us are descendants of Diasporan people — scattered from our homeland over generations to places around the globe. We spread and intermixed our culture organically. The Bible uses the word Diaspora to describe the Jews who were exiled from Israel by the Babylonians. But the word is used to describe me and you and many people and cultures in America.

 Here is our list of Afro-Asian Diaspora flavor profiles:

gumbo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cajun & Creole

  • Andouille sausage
  • bell pepper
  • blackberries
  • blackening seasonings
  • Cajun spice blends
  • cayenne
  • celery
  • collard greens
  • corn
  • crab
  • cucumbers
  • dark roux
  • figs
  • garlic
  • green pepper
  • Gumbo File
  • lemon
  • lime
  • mirlitons
  • okra
  • onions
  • parsley
  • pecans
  • scallions
  • shrimp
  • squash
  • Tabasco peppers
  • tomatoes

 

IMG_8320

 

 

 

 

 

peppers

 

 

 

 

 

 

Caribbean Islands

  • allspice
  • banana
  • black-eyed peas
  • brown sugar
  • cassava
  • chiles
  • coconut
  • corn
  • fig
  • grapefruit
  • nutmeg
  • orange
  • pigeon peas
  • pummelo
  • lime
  • lima beans
  • salt fish
  • sweet potatoes
  • taro root
  • thyme
  • yams

 

IMG_8285

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brazil

  • avocado
  • black beans
  • cassava fruits
  • chiles
  • cilantro
  • coconut
  • dried shrimp
  • guava
  • lime
  • malagueta pepper
  • manioc (cassava)
  • palm oil
  • passion fruit
  • pineapple
  • rice
  • sweat pepper

 

Peanuts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

West African

  • allspice
  • black pepper
  • chiles
  • coriander
  • cubeb berries
  • ginger
  • lemon
  • okra
  • onions
  • palm oil
  • peanuts
  • plantains
  • thyme
  • tomatoes
  • white pepper
  • yams

 

IMG_8326

 

 

 

 

 

North African

  • almonds
  • anise
  • caraway seed
  • cardamom
  • carrots
  • cayenne
  • chickpeas
  • chiles
  • cinnamon
  • cilantro
  • cinnamon
  • coriander seed
  • cumin
  • dates
  • eggplant
  • figs
  • ginger
  • green bell peppers
  • ground ginger
  • Harissa sauce
  • honey
  • lemon
  • lentils
  • mace
  • mint
  • nutmeg
  • olives
  • onion
  • paprika
  • parsley
  • raisins
  • turmeric

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

South African

  • barbecued meat
  • cassava leaves
  • chiles
  • chili
  • curry
  • garlic
  • ginger
  • groundnut powder
  • lime
  • maize
  • okra
  • onions
  • palm oil
  • peanuts
  • potatoes
  • tomatoes

 

IMG_8303

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chinese

  • cashews
  • dark soy sauce
  • dried shiitake
  • garlic
  • ginger
  • jasmine rice
  • mirin (rice wine)
  • oyster sauce
  • peanuts
  • ponzu
  • samal oelek (chile garlic sauce)
  • scallions
  • sesame oil
  • sesame seeds
  • soy
  • sriracha
  • tamari

 

IMG_8324

 

 

 

 

 

Indian

  • Basmati rice
  • black mustard seed
  • cardamom
  • cilantro
  • coconut milk
  • coriander
  • cumin
  • curry
  • dried chiles
  • fennel
  • fenugreek
  • fresh chilies
  • garam masala
  • garlic
  • ginger
  • lentils
  • nonfat plain yogurt
  • onions
  • potatoes
  • pulses
  • saffron
  • spinach
  • tamarind
  • tandoori spices
  • turmeric
  • whole cardamom
  • yogurt

 

IMG_8337

 

 

 

 

 

Japanese

  • bonito flakes
  • dried shiitake
  • garlic
  • ginger
  • kombu
  • mirin
  • miso
  • nori
  • ponzu
  • rice vinegar
  • sake
  • scallions
  • sesame seed oil
  • sesame seeds
  • short-grained rice
  • soba
  • soy sauce
  • udon
  • wasabi

 

IMG_8308

 

 

 

 

 

Korean

  • kimchi
  • fermented soybean paste (doenjang)
  • fish sauce
  • garlic
  • ginger
  • green onion
  • onions
  • pepper paste (gochugang)
  • rice vinegar
  • rice wine
  • scallions
  • sesame oil
  • sesame seeds
  • short-grained rice
  • soy sauce
  • sweet potato
  • vegetable side dishes
  • vegetables fermented in brine

For examples of Afro-Asian Diaspora recipes, click on these links:

JJ Johnson’s Pork Suya with Kimchi

Carribean-Asian Recipes

Afro-Asian Rice Treat (vegan)

Afro-Asian Salad (vegan)

Note: Thank you to Vivian Lee of Mt. Holyoke, for contributing research, photography and writing for this post.

What’s in your ethnic food cupboard?